Afternoon tea is my soapbox. It’s my impassioned, late night infomercial. I believe it is woefully under appreciated in North America and, as such, hard to find.

Like an unseen fourth dimension or a secret society, afternoon teas are among us but invisible. A quick local google and a variety of cottagecore tea houses are returned. Conspicuously, there’s no mention of Michelin starred Knife Pleat, nor of Neiman Marcus’ signature restaurant Mariposa, nor of 5-star luxury landmark The Ritz Laguna Niguel. Yet each of these has either a seasonal or perennial afternoon tea offering.

So let’s dive into one of these and see what all the (secret) fuss is about.

As mentioned above, Knife Pleat is a Michelin starred restaurant which primarily focuses on tasting menus. They also serve an afternoon tea strictly on Saturdays and operate a pay-in-full policy during booking. This establishment is also hidden in the most unlikely of locations …a mall. Tucked into the third or “penthouse” level it is surrounded by glass skylights and appointment only outposts of luxury giants.

Let’s start with spoilers. Is it worth it? Yes. Even at $115 per person, it actually is worth it. The setting is lovely, the service impeccable, the food memorable and the presentation meticulous.

I’ve visited a few times and while the menu changes seasonally, there is enough continuity to know what to expect. For tea, I recommend the Jin Xuan Oolong which is a buttery and delicate white tea. I found its mild flavor is optimal for food pairings.

On one visit, the first tier offered open sandwiches in the form of herbed cucumber, radish over watercress butter, and beet cured salmon. It was rounded out with two standouts: a lobster eclair presented on a flaky roll reminiscent of a biscuit and a salty, perfectly balanced caviar deviled egg.

The second tier had one of the rare misses, a fig and goat cheese seeded cracker. The flavors felt too sharp and were in competition with each other. However, a companion really enjoyed this dish so it’s a matter of taste. At the time of writing this, the current menu has swapped this out for a truffle brie on brioche which sounds mouthwatering!

This tier also included an apricot cream puff which was delightful but forgettable. The real showstopper of this level – and perhaps the whole tea – was this little slice of layered chocolate crémeux and hazelnut praline crunch.

If Ferrero Rocher nodded off and dreamed a delicious, aspirational dream it would result in this. Our waiter also kindly informed us they offer full size slices of this on their lunch menu and I’ve made a mental note.

During a summer visit, the top tier showcased a seasonally appropriate blueberry mint tart. Around the holidays, this became a lemon curd and meringue confection that resembled an adorable piped tree. On both occasions, it was paired with a macaron.

Complimenting the tea tower is an additional plate of pastries.

My personal preference to navigate a tea is to start with the savory choices, then enjoy scones as a transitional palette cleanser, then end with everything sweet. Traditionally, scones served during tea are paired with both clotted cream and jam and I always recommend using both.

The summer visit rounded out the pastry offerings with lemon pound cake, a pair of madeleines (one dipped in chocolate), and a truly fantastic pistachio butter cake.

When returning later in the year the lemon pound cake was superseded by a cheerful gingerbread cookie.

Of course, part of the experience is the ambience and Knife Pleat creates an oasis flooded with natural light and plush velvet chairs. The waiters never rush their guests and it’s clear this is a lingering and indulgent experience.

For those who wish to indulge even further, afternoon tea can be complimented by a caviar pairing, champagne, or a tasteful selection of cocktails. Enjoy every moment!